On looking back at the blog I see the ones I posted in Lahore have doubled up. Sorry about that.
Gary
Monday, July 30, 2007
Delay in posting the latest blog
Hi there,
Sorry on the delay in getting the blog up to date. Mostly dialup here in Iran with very slow connections. Impossible to upload. You may have to go to 'old posts' but the trip to the border is quite an interesting read I think. Off to Turkey tomorrow, hope I can keepup to date there.
Take care.
Gary & Joan
Sorry on the delay in getting the blog up to date. Mostly dialup here in Iran with very slow connections. Impossible to upload. You may have to go to 'old posts' but the trip to the border is quite an interesting read I think. Off to Turkey tomorrow, hope I can keepup to date there.
Take care.
Gary & Joan
Caspian Sea & Tabriz
28th July
The Caspian Sea s is one of those areas below sea level, 30 metres approximately. We reached it yesterday after crossing the mountain range that separates it from Tehran. Luckily we were able to bypass the capital but the road over the pass came as a surprise: from the turnoff where we began to climb was a traffic jam that continued for about 10kms culminating in a bottle neck where 8 rows of cars had to reduce to just the one. We got through eventually but the rest of the 140kms over the mountains was a continuous row of cars and all along the way vehicles were peeling off to find camp sites along the flowing river. It was a Friday and we found out afterwards it was the start of a 3 day public holiday in the country. On the coast we managed to find a camp site occupied by well over 2,000 campers. We found a space and set up late in the afternoon and still they poured in. The next morning where we had had our table & chairs was now occupied by people sleeping. It was quite an experience.
30th July
On the 29th we travelled along the coast until finding a pleasant place near a beach where we spent the afternoon and night. These Irani women have it tough as far as what they wear goes; on the beach, here they were in their thick coats and head scarves in the heat while the men striped off to swim. If they wanted to take a dip and not many did, they had to still wear their heavy garb. See photo. On the other hand, apart from their dress restrictions, they have all the opportunities jobwise and in all other aspects as the men. We have spoken to quite a few women who are happy with their lot apart from the dress code but feel hard done by in how the west are treating Iran. Compared to Pakistan where the women are treated like chattels. In the 3 weeks we spent in Pakistan we only saw three lots of women working in an office. We would go through a whole city and not see one adult woman on the street.If Iran was to get another president and some more flexible mullahs, it would be a great country.
Yesterday we once more crossed over the mountains and made it to Tabriz, not far from the Turkish border. It was a pleasant drive with interesting scenery. Heavily wooded mountains on the Caspian sea side giving way to rolling hills where wheat had been harvested. Men were in fields scything the long grass and villages of adobe houses blended into the landscape. Along the way we encountered the worst road we have been on in Iran. Nothing like the Paki ones but we have become used to 4 lane highways for most of the journey. Because of the roads a lot of the time lost in Pakistan and India has been made up and we will be crossing into Turkey almost the day I thought we would be.
We ave decided to stay another night here, I am quite weary and there are some interesting villages 50kms out of Tabriz we would like to see. I also want to try and get this blog up to date even if it means sitting in front of the computer for a few hours. Iran only has dial up and is dreadfully slow. A haircut is necessary, cut off this full beard I grew to keep the mullahs happy.
The Caspian Sea s is one of those areas below sea level, 30 metres approximately. We reached it yesterday after crossing the mountain range that separates it from Tehran. Luckily we were able to bypass the capital but the road over the pass came as a surprise: from the turnoff where we began to climb was a traffic jam that continued for about 10kms culminating in a bottle neck where 8 rows of cars had to reduce to just the one. We got through eventually but the rest of the 140kms over the mountains was a continuous row of cars and all along the way vehicles were peeling off to find camp sites along the flowing river. It was a Friday and we found out afterwards it was the start of a 3 day public holiday in the country. On the coast we managed to find a camp site occupied by well over 2,000 campers. We found a space and set up late in the afternoon and still they poured in. The next morning where we had had our table & chairs was now occupied by people sleeping. It was quite an experience.
30th July
On the 29th we travelled along the coast until finding a pleasant place near a beach where we spent the afternoon and night. These Irani women have it tough as far as what they wear goes; on the beach, here they were in their thick coats and head scarves in the heat while the men striped off to swim. If they wanted to take a dip and not many did, they had to still wear their heavy garb. See photo. On the other hand, apart from their dress restrictions, they have all the opportunities jobwise and in all other aspects as the men. We have spoken to quite a few women who are happy with their lot apart from the dress code but feel hard done by in how the west are treating Iran. Compared to Pakistan where the women are treated like chattels. In the 3 weeks we spent in Pakistan we only saw three lots of women working in an office. We would go through a whole city and not see one adult woman on the street.If Iran was to get another president and some more flexible mullahs, it would be a great country.
Yesterday we once more crossed over the mountains and made it to Tabriz, not far from the Turkish border. It was a pleasant drive with interesting scenery. Heavily wooded mountains on the Caspian sea side giving way to rolling hills where wheat had been harvested. Men were in fields scything the long grass and villages of adobe houses blended into the landscape. Along the way we encountered the worst road we have been on in Iran. Nothing like the Paki ones but we have become used to 4 lane highways for most of the journey. Because of the roads a lot of the time lost in Pakistan and India has been made up and we will be crossing into Turkey almost the day I thought we would be.
We ave decided to stay another night here, I am quite weary and there are some interesting villages 50kms out of Tabriz we would like to see. I also want to try and get this blog up to date even if it means sitting in front of the computer for a few hours. Iran only has dial up and is dreadfully slow. A haircut is necessary, cut off this full beard I grew to keep the mullahs happy.
Isfahan
26th July
Having trouble accessing the blog to put latest posts on. The authorities do funny things here, it could possibly be their doing. If this continues I may not be able to post these until Turkey.
Had a wonderful day yesterday wandering around, looking at the most amazing shops with the handicrafts and artwork of such a superb standard. Met up with 'Ali' who took us to a cousin's carpet shop where we expected the hard sell and informed him as soon as we went in we weren't interested. No, we just had chai after which he came with us part of the way along the square then invited us home for coffee which eventually became an invitation for a Persian lunch that we went back for. It was delicious with pickled garlic, pickled aubergine, lamb, salads rice, washed down with a chopped mint, yoghurt and water drink.
After a snooze we wandered along to the Si-o-Se Bridge where there is a tea house under the pillars. We sat and relaxed while the water gurgled by and boys fished from the water's edge. It has been such a recuperative day for us. Both needing a break, Isfahan with it's parks, trees, and river walks has been just the cure for us. In the evening everyone takes to the streets and parks along the river for their promenade. We bought ice creams and joined in and were even able to hold hands for the first time since India.
From what we have been told the Mullahs and the revolutionary council here in Iran are not popular and there is a longing for pre-revolution times. I was even told they wish the US would invade and change things, this from a bloke who had spent 20 years in the army including being involved in the Iran/Iraq war. It would be anther Iraq. The women at least can show their faces and are so much more outgoing than women in Pakistan. They are also very beautiful and not afraid to use makeup and dress more individually.
While in Isfahan we visited the cemetery of the over 30,000 young men from the Isfahan area killed in the horrible Iran/Iraq war. It was very touching to see the photos of all these young people killed above each grave. The US was on Iraq's side during that war.
Later:
Travelled on to Keshan, 200kms from Isfahan. A nice town with a great bazaar but what was the highlight were the Fin Gardens a few kms out of town. Built around natural springs some 3-400 years ago they are an area of flowing water channels, little fountains and cypress pines. There is a tea house there where one sits on these divan seats while the water flows from under you Another recuperative experience for us.
Had some of our ratatouille for tea last night. I had bought the vegies for it a few days back and being sick of throwing things out when they had gone off, was determined to make it up this time. Our van was parked right outside the front door of the hotel at Isfahan but I thought, if I pull the curtains, no one would know what I was doing. I had forgotten about the smell. Joan said she could smell it on the third floor. There were some strange looks when I walked back through the foyer. The ratatouille was delicious.
Having trouble accessing the blog to put latest posts on. The authorities do funny things here, it could possibly be their doing. If this continues I may not be able to post these until Turkey.
Had a wonderful day yesterday wandering around, looking at the most amazing shops with the handicrafts and artwork of such a superb standard. Met up with 'Ali' who took us to a cousin's carpet shop where we expected the hard sell and informed him as soon as we went in we weren't interested. No, we just had chai after which he came with us part of the way along the square then invited us home for coffee which eventually became an invitation for a Persian lunch that we went back for. It was delicious with pickled garlic, pickled aubergine, lamb, salads rice, washed down with a chopped mint, yoghurt and water drink.
After a snooze we wandered along to the Si-o-Se Bridge where there is a tea house under the pillars. We sat and relaxed while the water gurgled by and boys fished from the water's edge. It has been such a recuperative day for us. Both needing a break, Isfahan with it's parks, trees, and river walks has been just the cure for us. In the evening everyone takes to the streets and parks along the river for their promenade. We bought ice creams and joined in and were even able to hold hands for the first time since India.
From what we have been told the Mullahs and the revolutionary council here in Iran are not popular and there is a longing for pre-revolution times. I was even told they wish the US would invade and change things, this from a bloke who had spent 20 years in the army including being involved in the Iran/Iraq war. It would be anther Iraq. The women at least can show their faces and are so much more outgoing than women in Pakistan. They are also very beautiful and not afraid to use makeup and dress more individually.
While in Isfahan we visited the cemetery of the over 30,000 young men from the Isfahan area killed in the horrible Iran/Iraq war. It was very touching to see the photos of all these young people killed above each grave. The US was on Iraq's side during that war.
Later:
Travelled on to Keshan, 200kms from Isfahan. A nice town with a great bazaar but what was the highlight were the Fin Gardens a few kms out of town. Built around natural springs some 3-400 years ago they are an area of flowing water channels, little fountains and cypress pines. There is a tea house there where one sits on these divan seats while the water flows from under you Another recuperative experience for us.
Had some of our ratatouille for tea last night. I had bought the vegies for it a few days back and being sick of throwing things out when they had gone off, was determined to make it up this time. Our van was parked right outside the front door of the hotel at Isfahan but I thought, if I pull the curtains, no one would know what I was doing. I had forgotten about the smell. Joan said she could smell it on the third floor. There were some strange looks when I walked back through the foyer. The ratatouille was delicious.
Into Iran
23rd July
The Iran border is some 640kms from Quetta. Due to the flood damage we had decided to go as far as Dalbandin the first night then reach the border the next afternoon hoping to cross before it closed at 4pm. Dust haze had cut visibility to less than 1km in Quetta and continued for most of the day. We could occasionally make out mountain ranges either side of us.
The previous day two of the three car bombs that had shaken the country once again had occurred in the state of Baluchistan which Quetta is the capital. The hotel we were in insisted they call the police to enquire about an escort for us. Once again we were told it was essential. Proved a bloody farce as they met us at the hotel, drove 1km along the streets then stopped at an intersection and intimated we turn right onto the Iran road. That was the last we saw of any police escort. Expecting to run into another group waiting for us as was the case coming from Sukkur we drove along keeping an eye out until it dawned on us that there wasn't to be an escort. We were on our own which was a pleasant thought. For the whole distance the road follows the Afghan border getting to within 30kms of it at some points
After 20kms of roadworks the road descended to the usual pot holed secondary road we had become used to in Pakistan. Flood damage was evident for most of the distance to the border with a train stranded in the nearby track that had been washed away at one point. After almost 300kms the road improved to a fast 2 lane highway which meant we could cruise at 120km and reach the border the same day. Strong cross winds blew up a sand storm for the last couple of hours and at times we were reduced to a crawl, visibility was so bad. Soft drifts covered the road in places. We reached the border town of Taftan about 6pm.
Border formalities went off pretty smoothly the next morning. This crossing is part of the Trans International Route (TIR) and used by truckies taking goods mainly into Pakistan. Whereas the Indian/Paki border where we had problems hardly sees a vehicle apart from travellers, this one sees up to 100 trucks a day. They know the drill and everything is checked. The same on the Iran side, all documents were double checked to make sure they were correct. We wanted to push on to at least Bam but were once again held up by security as it seems we needed an escort as far as Zahedan some 90kms on. This time the army came in the van as well as a young Japanese traveller who had also just crossed. We reached Zahedan eventually on an excellent highway and after grabbing a bite to eat then arguing with the army that we didn't need another escort we took off covering the 370kms in just over 3 hours.
You may have heard of the price of diesel here in Iran, just how cheap it is. We filled up the tank along the way, 35 litres which cost us 6,000 rials. There are about 8,000 rials to a AU$. That's 2 cents a litre by my reckoning. We had bought a couple of jerry cans in Quetta as we were told the only fuel you could get going to the border was stuff smuggled in from Iran of a very dubious quality. I think we will keep them for when we leave the country as I believe diesel is expensive in Turkey.
We remember visiting Bam 31 years ago. It is famous for its citadel, an ancient mud brick town built on a fortified hill. Work was being done at the time in restoring it. Then came the 2004 earthquake that wiped out the modern town killing thousands as well as turning the citadel once more to rubble. The town is a construction site with massive steel framework being erected around which the houses are built. Mud brick is out. The place is a mess but that's to be expected. We will visit the Citadel today before heading on to Yazd.
We are pleased to be out of Pakistan. We love the people but the country is so screwed up. We never felt threatened at any time but then it might only take some fanatic to take his displeasure out on us to change all that. I always said I thought Pakistan would be the difficult one and that seemed to be the case.
The Iran border is some 640kms from Quetta. Due to the flood damage we had decided to go as far as Dalbandin the first night then reach the border the next afternoon hoping to cross before it closed at 4pm. Dust haze had cut visibility to less than 1km in Quetta and continued for most of the day. We could occasionally make out mountain ranges either side of us.
The previous day two of the three car bombs that had shaken the country once again had occurred in the state of Baluchistan which Quetta is the capital. The hotel we were in insisted they call the police to enquire about an escort for us. Once again we were told it was essential. Proved a bloody farce as they met us at the hotel, drove 1km along the streets then stopped at an intersection and intimated we turn right onto the Iran road. That was the last we saw of any police escort. Expecting to run into another group waiting for us as was the case coming from Sukkur we drove along keeping an eye out until it dawned on us that there wasn't to be an escort. We were on our own which was a pleasant thought. For the whole distance the road follows the Afghan border getting to within 30kms of it at some points
After 20kms of roadworks the road descended to the usual pot holed secondary road we had become used to in Pakistan. Flood damage was evident for most of the distance to the border with a train stranded in the nearby track that had been washed away at one point. After almost 300kms the road improved to a fast 2 lane highway which meant we could cruise at 120km and reach the border the same day. Strong cross winds blew up a sand storm for the last couple of hours and at times we were reduced to a crawl, visibility was so bad. Soft drifts covered the road in places. We reached the border town of Taftan about 6pm.
Border formalities went off pretty smoothly the next morning. This crossing is part of the Trans International Route (TIR) and used by truckies taking goods mainly into Pakistan. Whereas the Indian/Paki border where we had problems hardly sees a vehicle apart from travellers, this one sees up to 100 trucks a day. They know the drill and everything is checked. The same on the Iran side, all documents were double checked to make sure they were correct. We wanted to push on to at least Bam but were once again held up by security as it seems we needed an escort as far as Zahedan some 90kms on. This time the army came in the van as well as a young Japanese traveller who had also just crossed. We reached Zahedan eventually on an excellent highway and after grabbing a bite to eat then arguing with the army that we didn't need another escort we took off covering the 370kms in just over 3 hours.
You may have heard of the price of diesel here in Iran, just how cheap it is. We filled up the tank along the way, 35 litres which cost us 6,000 rials. There are about 8,000 rials to a AU$. That's 2 cents a litre by my reckoning. We had bought a couple of jerry cans in Quetta as we were told the only fuel you could get going to the border was stuff smuggled in from Iran of a very dubious quality. I think we will keep them for when we leave the country as I believe diesel is expensive in Turkey.
We remember visiting Bam 31 years ago. It is famous for its citadel, an ancient mud brick town built on a fortified hill. Work was being done at the time in restoring it. Then came the 2004 earthquake that wiped out the modern town killing thousands as well as turning the citadel once more to rubble. The town is a construction site with massive steel framework being erected around which the houses are built. Mud brick is out. The place is a mess but that's to be expected. We will visit the Citadel today before heading on to Yazd.
We are pleased to be out of Pakistan. We love the people but the country is so screwed up. We never felt threatened at any time but then it might only take some fanatic to take his displeasure out on us to change all that. I always said I thought Pakistan would be the difficult one and that seemed to be the case.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Quetta
17th July
The armed escort arrangement was usually a Toyota ute with a driver and officer in the front and at least one but up to four armed police commandos in the back. Usually with one standing, legs straddled, and rifle resting on the cab. Once it sunk to an underpowered motor bike with a bloke riding shotgun on the back (see photo). This happened in the desert with an excellent road when we were forced to cruise along at 70kph. Quite frustrating.
They would take us a prearranged distance where the next escort would be waiting. It usually went smoothly with us not even having to stop. We hardly had time to wave to the departing group. The speed of the escort varied considerably: from a sedate 80kph to a hair raising 120kph along a good road that eventually deteriorated a little but the speed didn't. The road surface was good most of the way though the signs of the flooding were evident later in the day. Piles of debris and rocks had been dozed off the road just before the Bolan Pass and up the pass. At least here the clearing was taken down to the asphalt.
The Bolan Pass is a very famous one historically with many invaders entering the Sub Continent this way. A gradual climb on a good road, we enjoyed it and the barren scenery. Traffic was heavy, truckies making up on time for when it was closed.
We must have had well over 20 different escorts. Was it all overkill? Normally I would've said yes but with the Red Mosque killings and the attacks on the armed forces in the north west we think it was a good idea. We were only to have a break down or be stopped by a landslide and staying in some areas all night on our own wouldn't be appealing. We are not permitted to go out after dark here in Quetta.
Our 2nd hiccup. The hotel we are staying at noticed that we didn't have an entry stamp for Pakistan in our passports. This is the 9th hotel we've stayed at and it hasn't been picked up before. It appears when we came over from India we somehow missed immigration and there was nobody there to check. This has caused a problem but luckily it was picked up here rather than for us go to the border 600kms of nothingness further on and be turned back as would have happened.
18th July
After spending hours in the office of the Deputy Director of Immigration and security yesterday we find we have to fly back to Lahore, go out to the border with India and get our passports correctly stamped. The first flight we can get on is Thursday, back Friday and head on to the border on Saturday. It is a bloody expensive and time wasting nuisance. Both we are to blame as well as the inept formality procedure put in place at the Paki side of the border. Anybody could've walked through. We were waved on by the customs bloke, we therefore thought he had completed all the formalities, not just the customs. I couldn't see why the bloke here in Quetta couldn't stamp our Passports with a cover note but no, that is not possible.
20th July.
In Lahore with Broadband to catch up on emails. Stamps in passport and fly back to Quetta this afternoon.
Gary
15th July
After leaving the luxury of the Marriott at Islamabad we have headed south covering over 1,000kms in two days. Some of it on motorway and quite good roads for the rest of it. We are now in Sukkur and heading to Quetta tomorrow.
We have been aware of things hotting up but it was brought home to us when we said to the receptionist at our hotel here that we were going up town, only to be told we would have to wait for our escort who turned up as a member of the constabulary with his rifle slung over his shoulder. Our main reason for going was to see if we needed an escort to go to Quetta and it appears we do need one for part of the way. They seem to have done this many times. I will post this when we get to Quetta.
We have both had stomach problems the last couple of days, Joan seems to be over hers but mine is hanging on. To make us feel really peeved off yesterday, I put the first dent in the van. Not by being hit by one of the local drivers but trying to squeeze into a car park underneath the hotel we were staying in. Needs a bit of panel beating which I will get done before we get to Europe.
Joan was given a cake and a nice bunch of flowers by the Marriott, had our photos taken as we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her. It was all very nice. Unfortunately I couldn't eat much of the delicious cake, I was feeling so off. Not the height of health with my sun burnt scabby nose and burnt lips from the polo. Have lost 8kg the last couple of weeks. Need a few Greek salads and mouzaka to put it back on. The Paki food is so unappealing. I think the strain of that driving in the north took more out of me that I realized.
Police Escort 5 officers in back
15th July
After leaving the luxury of the Marriott at Islamabad we have headed south covering over 1,000kms in two days. Some of it on motorway and quite good roads for the rest of it. We are now in Sukkur and heading to Quetta tomorrow.
We have been aware of things hotting up but it was brought home to us when we said to the receptionist at our hotel here that we were going up town, only to be told we would have to wait for our escort who turned up as a member of the constabulary with his rifle slung over his shoulder. Our main reason for going was to see if we needed an escort to go to Quetta and it appears we do need one for part of the way. They seem to have done this many times. I will post this when we get to Quetta.
We have both had stomach problems the last couple of days, Joan seems to be over hers but mine is hanging on. To make us feel really peeved off yesterday, I put the first dent in the van. Not by being hit by one of the local drivers but trying to squeeze into a car park underneath the hotel we were staying in. Needs a bit of panel beating which I will get done before we get to Europe.
Joan was given a cake and a nice bunch of flowers by the Marriott, had our photos taken as we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her. It was all very nice. Unfortunately I couldn't eat much of the delicious cake, I was feeling so off. Not the height of health with my sun burnt scabby nose and burnt lips from the polo. Have lost 8kg the last couple of weeks. Need a few Greek salads and mouzaka to put it back on. The Paki food is so unappealing. I think the strain of that driving in the north took more out of me that I realized.
Police Escort at ther Ready
15th July
After leaving the luxury of the Marriott at Islamabad we have headed south covering over 1,000kms in two days. Some of it on motorway and quite good roads for the rest of it. We are now in Sukkur and heading to Quetta tomorrow.
We have been aware of things hotting up but it was brought home to us when we said to the receptionist at our hotel here that we were going up town, only to be told we would have to wait for our escort who turned up as a member of the constabulary with his rifle slung over his shoulder. Our main reason for going was to see if we needed an escort to go to Quetta and it appears we do need one for part of the way. They seem to have done this many times. I will post this when we get to Quetta.
We have both had stomach problems the last couple of days, Joan seems to be over hers but mine is hanging on. To make us feel really peeved off yesterday, I put the first dent in the van. Not by being hit by one of the local drivers but trying to squeeze into a car park underneath the hotel we were staying in. Needs a bit of panel beating which I will get done before we get to Europe.
Joan was given a cake and a nice bunch of flowers by the Marriott, had our photos taken as we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her. It was all very nice. Unfortunately I couldn't eat much of the delicious cake, I was feeling so off. Not the height of health with my sun burnt scabby nose and burnt lips from the polo. Have lost 8kg the last couple of weeks. Need a few Greek salads and mouzaka to put it back on. The Paki food is so unappealing. I think the strain of that driving in the north took more out of me that I realized.
Police Escort Basic
15th July
After leaving the luxury of the Marriott at Islamabad we have headed south covering over 1,000kms in two days. Some of it on motorway and quite good roads for the rest of it. We are now in Sukkur and heading to Quetta tomorrow.
We have been aware of things hotting up but it was brought home to us when we said to the receptionist at our hotel here that we were going up town, only to be told we would have to wait for our escort who turned up as a member of the constabulary with his rifle slung over his shoulder. Our main reason for going was to see if we needed an escort to go to Quetta and it appears we do need one for part of the way. They seem to have done this many times. I will post this when we get to Quetta.
We have both had stomach problems the last couple of days, Joan seems to be over hers but mine is hanging on. To make us feel really peeved off yesterday, I put the first dent in the van. Not by being hit by one of the local drivers but trying to squeeze into a car park underneath the hotel we were staying in. Needs a bit of panel beating which I will get done before we get to Europe.
Joan was given a cake and a nice bunch of flowers by the Marriott, had our photos taken as we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her. It was all very nice. Unfortunately I couldn't eat much of the delicious cake, I was feeling so off. Not the height of health with my sun burnt scabby nose and burnt lips from the polo. Have lost 8kg the last couple of weeks. Need a few Greek salads and mouzaka to put it back on. The Paki food is so unappealing. I think the strain of that driving in the north took more out of me that I realized.
To Quetta
15th July
After leaving the luxury of the Marriott at Islamabad we have headed south covering over 1,000kms in two days. Some of it on motorway and quite good roads for the rest of it. We are now in Sukkur and heading to Quetta tomorrow.
We have been aware of things hotting up but it was brought home to us when we said to the receptionist at our hotel here that we were going up town, only to be told we would have to wait for our escort who turned up as a member of the constabulary with his rifle slung over his shoulder. Our main reason for going was to see if we needed an escort to go to Quetta and it appears we do need one for part of the way. They seem to have done this many times. I will post this when we get to Quetta.
We have both had stomach problems the last couple of days, Joan seems to be over hers but mine is hanging on. To make us feel really peeved off yesterday, I put the first dent in the van. Not by being hit by one of the local drivers but trying to squeeze into a car park underneath the hotel we were staying in. Needs a bit of panel beating which I will get done before we get to Europe.
Joan was given a cake and a nice bunch of flowers by the Marriott, had our photos taken as we sang 'Happy Birthday' to her. It was all very nice. Unfortunately I couldn't eat much of the delicious cake, I was feeling so off. Not the height of health with my sun burnt scabby nose and burnt lips from the polo. Have lost 8kg the last couple of weeks. Need a few Greek salads and mouzaka to put it back on. The Paki food is so unappealing. I think the strain of that driving in the north took more out of me that I realized.
Friday, July 13, 2007
Lowari Pass
11th July
Another day, another horror road. At least this time it lacked some of the danger of coming down from Shandur. We climbed up and over the Lowari Pass today, the road out of Chitral was a good sealed road until we began climbing. The 43 sphincter-tightening hairpin bends weren't too bad, it was the climb over all the slips that were a strain as the undercarriage of the poor van scraped and crunched its way over the more solid rocks. More dents in that bloody water tank but still holding firm Those 43 bends were going up, going down was a little easier. People are advised not to travel on the pass at night as there have been cases of armed holdups.
There were some interesting sights: glaciers coming down to the road from where the locals cut the ice to sell to the shops in Chitral and other towns. The slip on the pass yesterday was the reason the lassi wallah had to apologise for no ice in my lassi. The sides of the valley were so steep the roof of one mud brick house is the floor of the one above. The opening of a 9km tunnel, 4 years in the making and meant to be finished next year. We met one of the Austrian engineers working on the job at the polo. This will do away with the climb.
Our good news is that it seems the road to Quetta and on to the border is now open. We will push on south now and should cross over about the 17th July.
13th July
Yesterday was a day to forget. Owing to two similar sounding names we ended up in the Swat Valley instead of on the Grand Trunk Road heading south. We took a short cut that included 3 low passes, most of it on a sealed road. Then suddenly it deteriorated to a goat track meaning we had to make do with a stop at Madan. A choice of 2 low low budget hotels, the room we were shown had a/c but no outside windows. The temp would be in the high 30's. At 8pm there was a power cut that lasted the whole night. The only window was on to the foyer where the staff slept at night. It was a shocker of a sleepless night with me having to take a hose down at some early hour. My turn for a crook gut didn't help matters.
Today we headed off early and decided to make it to Islamabad where we booked a room at the Marriott to celebrate Joan's birthday. They are putting on a birthday celebration at no expense to us. It's one of the few places that you can have an alcoholic drink as well. The room has broadband and I can therefore post a few photos that I have taken over the last week. Thre are quite a few and will go onto the 'old posts' page.
We will make up for time with a big drive tomorrow.
Another day, another horror road. At least this time it lacked some of the danger of coming down from Shandur. We climbed up and over the Lowari Pass today, the road out of Chitral was a good sealed road until we began climbing. The 43 sphincter-tightening hairpin bends weren't too bad, it was the climb over all the slips that were a strain as the undercarriage of the poor van scraped and crunched its way over the more solid rocks. More dents in that bloody water tank but still holding firm Those 43 bends were going up, going down was a little easier. People are advised not to travel on the pass at night as there have been cases of armed holdups.
There were some interesting sights: glaciers coming down to the road from where the locals cut the ice to sell to the shops in Chitral and other towns. The slip on the pass yesterday was the reason the lassi wallah had to apologise for no ice in my lassi. The sides of the valley were so steep the roof of one mud brick house is the floor of the one above. The opening of a 9km tunnel, 4 years in the making and meant to be finished next year. We met one of the Austrian engineers working on the job at the polo. This will do away with the climb.
Our good news is that it seems the road to Quetta and on to the border is now open. We will push on south now and should cross over about the 17th July.
13th July
Yesterday was a day to forget. Owing to two similar sounding names we ended up in the Swat Valley instead of on the Grand Trunk Road heading south. We took a short cut that included 3 low passes, most of it on a sealed road. Then suddenly it deteriorated to a goat track meaning we had to make do with a stop at Madan. A choice of 2 low low budget hotels, the room we were shown had a/c but no outside windows. The temp would be in the high 30's. At 8pm there was a power cut that lasted the whole night. The only window was on to the foyer where the staff slept at night. It was a shocker of a sleepless night with me having to take a hose down at some early hour. My turn for a crook gut didn't help matters.
Today we headed off early and decided to make it to Islamabad where we booked a room at the Marriott to celebrate Joan's birthday. They are putting on a birthday celebration at no expense to us. It's one of the few places that you can have an alcoholic drink as well. The room has broadband and I can therefore post a few photos that I have taken over the last week. Thre are quite a few and will go onto the 'old posts' page.
We will make up for time with a big drive tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Chitral
11th July
It was a wise move staying the extra night at Shandur Pass. There were only a few stragglers left and they were up near the bazaar. We went back to the lake where we were alone. The night was one of those nights where there is complete silence. Not even a bird call. Earlier the donkey herd that must've been yarded during the festival wandered past grazing on the short alpine grass.
We left early yesterday as we knew the road was going to be rough and we wanted to get to Chitral in time to send some emails. It took us 5¼ hours to go 75kms. We thought the KKH was bad, this was worse and so much more dangerous. The Lonely Planet said that the 11kms closest to the Shandur Pass were 4wd, well they were the best part of the trip. The rest was treacherous single lane road that had never seen a grader. In fact I doubt there is a grader in the country. It was rocky with sudden jump ups and drops down into streams and waterways. Passing bays were few and often inadequate. The most anxious moment was when we met an army truck at a very narrow point. The drop to the rushing river would have been 200 metres and I was on the river side. Of course there were no guard rails and I was afraid the edge might give way. It took us a good 2 minutes for him to inch past us. I refused to move closer to the edge. This is very slip prone country. When there is one they don't bulldoze it down to the original road surface but just make a track up and over the slip, always single lane and usually very rough.
By the time we reached tarseal both of us were completely drained. I'm sitting here at a hotel in Chitral writing this as the same river, they call it the Kabul here, rushes past. After three days of dirt and dust it was bliss to have a hot shower and to relax. We have one more pass to traverse which incidentally was closed yesterday with a slip, before we reach the plains and head south.
The water tank has been a major problem, the way it protrudes 75mm lower than the rest of the car. Apart from concentrating on the driving I had to pick the best section of road with less rocks on that side of the van. Even then it has taken a beating with the plywood protection panel partially demolished and the tank itself battered but luckily not leaking. If we sell our van in the UK and buy another in AU it will be a major point in our choice of vehicle.
The troubles in Islamabad have erupted at a bad time. We have no need to go there as we head south and I think it wise to pass into Iran as soon as we can. We always knew that Pakistan could be awkward but so far the only danger that have personally affected us has been a couple of the roads we have driven on.
It was a wise move staying the extra night at Shandur Pass. There were only a few stragglers left and they were up near the bazaar. We went back to the lake where we were alone. The night was one of those nights where there is complete silence. Not even a bird call. Earlier the donkey herd that must've been yarded during the festival wandered past grazing on the short alpine grass.
We left early yesterday as we knew the road was going to be rough and we wanted to get to Chitral in time to send some emails. It took us 5¼ hours to go 75kms. We thought the KKH was bad, this was worse and so much more dangerous. The Lonely Planet said that the 11kms closest to the Shandur Pass were 4wd, well they were the best part of the trip. The rest was treacherous single lane road that had never seen a grader. In fact I doubt there is a grader in the country. It was rocky with sudden jump ups and drops down into streams and waterways. Passing bays were few and often inadequate. The most anxious moment was when we met an army truck at a very narrow point. The drop to the rushing river would have been 200 metres and I was on the river side. Of course there were no guard rails and I was afraid the edge might give way. It took us a good 2 minutes for him to inch past us. I refused to move closer to the edge. This is very slip prone country. When there is one they don't bulldoze it down to the original road surface but just make a track up and over the slip, always single lane and usually very rough.
By the time we reached tarseal both of us were completely drained. I'm sitting here at a hotel in Chitral writing this as the same river, they call it the Kabul here, rushes past. After three days of dirt and dust it was bliss to have a hot shower and to relax. We have one more pass to traverse which incidentally was closed yesterday with a slip, before we reach the plains and head south.
The water tank has been a major problem, the way it protrudes 75mm lower than the rest of the car. Apart from concentrating on the driving I had to pick the best section of road with less rocks on that side of the van. Even then it has taken a beating with the plywood protection panel partially demolished and the tank itself battered but luckily not leaking. If we sell our van in the UK and buy another in AU it will be a major point in our choice of vehicle.
The troubles in Islamabad have erupted at a bad time. We have no need to go there as we head south and I think it wise to pass into Iran as soon as we can. We always knew that Pakistan could be awkward but so far the only danger that have personally affected us has been a couple of the roads we have driven on.
Freestyle Polo
8th July.
Since arriving in Pakistan we've been travelling up rivers, mainly the Indus, for 9 days finally reaching the top of the watershed here at Shandur Pass. At 8130 metres the pass is higher than New Zealand's highest peak, Mt Cook. It's a wide pass, wide enough to hold a good sized lake, a polo field and plenty of room to house the 10,000 odd people who come to watch the comp. Last year there were over 14,000 but the trouble at the Red Mosque in Islamabad is thought to have scared many away. The army and police are in large numbers with rifles slung over shoulders. We never thought of being affected by altitude sickness but have had bad headaches since arriving and shortage of breath.
The style of polo they play here is called Freestyle Polo or Wild Polo. As far as we can ascertain there are only to rules: change ends after scoring a goal and if a player or horse has to retire injured the other team drops one of their team. There are no change of horses, there is no referee. There are 2 chukkas each of 25 minutes with a 10 minute break. The action is hectic and dangerous with both horses and men suffering fatalities in the past. One horse had to be put down on the first day. It is full on action with wielding mallets liable to damage the other opponents or their horses. On quite a few occasions horses ended up amongst the spectators and riders nosediving over the rock barrier on others. The playing field was grassed though after the earlier games the dust was coming through to accompany the dust churned up by all the vehicles. The horses they use are not just farm hacks but beautiful animals that have been bred in this rarefied air. The don't come in horse floats but walk all the way from their homes often many kilometres away.
Actually the final on the third day was an anticlmax. Some VIP's were coming and security was ridiculously tight. The way the army and police treated the spectators was appalling We were even threatened with a police horse charge. We had decided to leave at half time to beat the hundreds of vehicles heading east or west only to find we were banned from leaving the area until the VIP's had got back into their helicopters and toddled off. They must have thought one of us had an anti aircraft gun. There was a lot of consternation with the locals who also wanted to head off early. Knowing that the hold up might last for a couple of hours we decided to stay another night here. We are parked b the lake watching an endless stream of vehicles heading east down the pass.
Since arriving in Pakistan we've been travelling up rivers, mainly the Indus, for 9 days finally reaching the top of the watershed here at Shandur Pass. At 8130 metres the pass is higher than New Zealand's highest peak, Mt Cook. It's a wide pass, wide enough to hold a good sized lake, a polo field and plenty of room to house the 10,000 odd people who come to watch the comp. Last year there were over 14,000 but the trouble at the Red Mosque in Islamabad is thought to have scared many away. The army and police are in large numbers with rifles slung over shoulders. We never thought of being affected by altitude sickness but have had bad headaches since arriving and shortage of breath.
The style of polo they play here is called Freestyle Polo or Wild Polo. As far as we can ascertain there are only to rules: change ends after scoring a goal and if a player or horse has to retire injured the other team drops one of their team. There are no change of horses, there is no referee. There are 2 chukkas each of 25 minutes with a 10 minute break. The action is hectic and dangerous with both horses and men suffering fatalities in the past. One horse had to be put down on the first day. It is full on action with wielding mallets liable to damage the other opponents or their horses. On quite a few occasions horses ended up amongst the spectators and riders nosediving over the rock barrier on others. The playing field was grassed though after the earlier games the dust was coming through to accompany the dust churned up by all the vehicles. The horses they use are not just farm hacks but beautiful animals that have been bred in this rarefied air. The don't come in horse floats but walk all the way from their homes often many kilometres away.
Actually the final on the third day was an anticlmax. Some VIP's were coming and security was ridiculously tight. The way the army and police treated the spectators was appalling We were even threatened with a police horse charge. We had decided to leave at half time to beat the hundreds of vehicles heading east or west only to find we were banned from leaving the area until the VIP's had got back into their helicopters and toddled off. They must have thought one of us had an anti aircraft gun. There was a lot of consternation with the locals who also wanted to head off early. Knowing that the hold up might last for a couple of hours we decided to stay another night here. We are parked b the lake watching an endless stream of vehicles heading east down the pass.
On way to Shandur Pass
6th July.
We left Gilgit yesterday intending to take 2 days to get to Shandur Pass for the polo comp. The valleys we climbed through were exquisite each seeming to better than the previous one. The little bit of flat land there is was planted with wheat, barley, potatoes and other vegetable crops while stone fruit trees grew everywhere. The river was cleaner from the last of the melting snows. Such beauty is hard to describe, the air is so clean and clear. It's also getting thinner as the VW is finding out. We stopped the night at the Tourist Assn Motel at Phandur with views looking down the valley one way and a beautiful lake on our other side. All for $2 including the use of a hot shower. Our first one in 4 days, perhaps they thought we needed it.
The polo starts on the 7th and as t wasn't much point getting there a day early we decided to camp alongside a river for the night if a spot seemed suitable. Our first effort to get off the road was a disaster with the low clearance proving a fault for the first time. We had to be towed out. Along the road a short distance was a camp for the fisheries inspector who checks the trout licences. It was perfect and a bit of company in case of trouble though the Pakistanis in this area are the most friendly generous people you can imagine. It is quite embarrassing as we have little to offer them in return. We had just levelled the van when we were presented with a smoked trout for lunch. Much better than a cheese & gherkin sandwich and another was brought over for our tea a little later. Two cars have pulled up in the last hour with keen fishermen heading over to the river. Might get another for tomorrow if we're lucky. The wind is cool but the sun still as a bite in it even at 3,000 metres.
Ths morning at Gilgit we awoke to find a large Nissan bus had pulled up next to us in the camp site. It was one of three vehicles owned by a group of New Zealanders who had just come through China and were heading like us, to France for the Rugby. Those bloody New Zealanders are a weird mob
We left Gilgit yesterday intending to take 2 days to get to Shandur Pass for the polo comp. The valleys we climbed through were exquisite each seeming to better than the previous one. The little bit of flat land there is was planted with wheat, barley, potatoes and other vegetable crops while stone fruit trees grew everywhere. The river was cleaner from the last of the melting snows. Such beauty is hard to describe, the air is so clean and clear. It's also getting thinner as the VW is finding out. We stopped the night at the Tourist Assn Motel at Phandur with views looking down the valley one way and a beautiful lake on our other side. All for $2 including the use of a hot shower. Our first one in 4 days, perhaps they thought we needed it.
The polo starts on the 7th and as t wasn't much point getting there a day early we decided to camp alongside a river for the night if a spot seemed suitable. Our first effort to get off the road was a disaster with the low clearance proving a fault for the first time. We had to be towed out. Along the road a short distance was a camp for the fisheries inspector who checks the trout licences. It was perfect and a bit of company in case of trouble though the Pakistanis in this area are the most friendly generous people you can imagine. It is quite embarrassing as we have little to offer them in return. We had just levelled the van when we were presented with a smoked trout for lunch. Much better than a cheese & gherkin sandwich and another was brought over for our tea a little later. Two cars have pulled up in the last hour with keen fishermen heading over to the river. Might get another for tomorrow if we're lucky. The wind is cool but the sun still as a bite in it even at 3,000 metres.
Ths morning at Gilgit we awoke to find a large Nissan bus had pulled up next to us in the camp site. It was one of three vehicles owned by a group of New Zealanders who had just come through China and were heading like us, to France for the Rugby. Those bloody New Zealanders are a weird mob
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
St
Just in case you think we are in the middle of the turmoil in Islamabad this short post is to let you know we are 300kms away and hope to bypass it when we head south.
Haven't been able to do the latest posts as the internet up here near the Afghani border is pretty poor.
Take care.
Gary
Haven't been able to do the latest posts as the internet up here near the Afghani border is pretty poor.
Take care.
Gary
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Karakoram Highway
Sorry no photos, a dial up connection here in Gilgit is very slow.
2nd July
It took 8½ hours to go 200kms today. Not good going but this is one of those days that we will remember for many a year. It was 200 kilometres of hair raising driving of which I don't think I have experienced before. The road is 2 lane which is a god send but driving for that distance of sometimes pot holed road, keeping an eye on the mad mini bus drivers that are travelling at twice my speed, catching a glimpse of the view when ever I can knowing all the time the swirling muddy waters of the mighty Indus River is thousands of feet vertically below you . The road has been carved out of sheer mountainsides by the Chinese. It took them 20 years to complete with many killed in the process. They built as a corridor from China to the Indian Ocean. When ever you turn a corner the view is of the road snaking away into the distance, rising and falling in long languorous stretches. Guard rails are few, most have been demolished by land slides and the remains of a truck was left on the side of the road as a reminder of what might happen. For the whole distance we travelled today the Indus never let up, it roared, swirled, whirlpooled and rushed downwards. A murky torrent. It would be interesting to know how many vehicles had gone over the edge.
We made it to a place called Darrus, A small turn built where the Indus roars through a 50 metre bridged gap. Our hotel room is literally metres from the river, the noise of the water rushing through the gap is quite deafening. Joan has had an upset stomach the last couple of days. The Porta Potti has proven its worth.
4th July
Sitting under peach and pomegranate, apple and apricot trees writing this on a grassed area next to the Chinnar Inn here in Gilgit. A brass band is playing in the background. We made the final 260kms of the KKH that we will be travelling on late afternoon. This is bliss. The drive yesterday started the same as the day before with the road hewn out of solid rock, sometimes it was like a horizontal 'U' with rock below and above as you drove. I was quite concerned beforehand as most of the day's drive I would be on the drop side. As it was I needn't have worried, it made little difference. After 70-80 kms the valley began to open a little and that proved the case for most of the day. Still hair raising at times but the surface was better apart from around the slips. Later in the day the snow capped peaks of the main range of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram Ranges began to appear behind the Indus Valley range. They included Angar Prabat, the world's 8th highest mountain.
50Kms before Gilgit at one of the clear mountain streams a young bloke was selling freshly caught trout, I bought one that must have weighed a good 1.5kg for $3 and had the chef of the hotel cook it for us local style. This was with a crusty masala coating that held in the juices. It was delicious. All it need was a sauvignon blanc to wash it down.
Before entering Pakistan I was concerned with the diesel quality compared to the other countries. A VW fanatic in Rawalpindi told me of the brand to get which I have done and the motor seems to go as sweetly as usual. . This is a relief .
We will spend a day or two here in Gilgit resting before heading west to the Shandur Pass. The polo celebrations begin on Friday. I believe the road is not the best in places on the way to the pass and may be impassable if we go on to Chittral as we would like. Otherwise it's back down the KKH.
2nd July
It took 8½ hours to go 200kms today. Not good going but this is one of those days that we will remember for many a year. It was 200 kilometres of hair raising driving of which I don't think I have experienced before. The road is 2 lane which is a god send but driving for that distance of sometimes pot holed road, keeping an eye on the mad mini bus drivers that are travelling at twice my speed, catching a glimpse of the view when ever I can knowing all the time the swirling muddy waters of the mighty Indus River is thousands of feet vertically below you . The road has been carved out of sheer mountainsides by the Chinese. It took them 20 years to complete with many killed in the process. They built as a corridor from China to the Indian Ocean. When ever you turn a corner the view is of the road snaking away into the distance, rising and falling in long languorous stretches. Guard rails are few, most have been demolished by land slides and the remains of a truck was left on the side of the road as a reminder of what might happen. For the whole distance we travelled today the Indus never let up, it roared, swirled, whirlpooled and rushed downwards. A murky torrent. It would be interesting to know how many vehicles had gone over the edge.
We made it to a place called Darrus, A small turn built where the Indus roars through a 50 metre bridged gap. Our hotel room is literally metres from the river, the noise of the water rushing through the gap is quite deafening. Joan has had an upset stomach the last couple of days. The Porta Potti has proven its worth.
4th July
Sitting under peach and pomegranate, apple and apricot trees writing this on a grassed area next to the Chinnar Inn here in Gilgit. A brass band is playing in the background. We made the final 260kms of the KKH that we will be travelling on late afternoon. This is bliss. The drive yesterday started the same as the day before with the road hewn out of solid rock, sometimes it was like a horizontal 'U' with rock below and above as you drove. I was quite concerned beforehand as most of the day's drive I would be on the drop side. As it was I needn't have worried, it made little difference. After 70-80 kms the valley began to open a little and that proved the case for most of the day. Still hair raising at times but the surface was better apart from around the slips. Later in the day the snow capped peaks of the main range of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram Ranges began to appear behind the Indus Valley range. They included Angar Prabat, the world's 8th highest mountain.
50Kms before Gilgit at one of the clear mountain streams a young bloke was selling freshly caught trout, I bought one that must have weighed a good 1.5kg for $3 and had the chef of the hotel cook it for us local style. This was with a crusty masala coating that held in the juices. It was delicious. All it need was a sauvignon blanc to wash it down.
Before entering Pakistan I was concerned with the diesel quality compared to the other countries. A VW fanatic in Rawalpindi told me of the brand to get which I have done and the motor seems to go as sweetly as usual. . This is a relief .
We will spend a day or two here in Gilgit resting before heading west to the Shandur Pass. The polo celebrations begin on Friday. I believe the road is not the best in places on the way to the pass and may be impassable if we go on to Chittral as we would like. Otherwise it's back down the KKH.
Not the Karakoram Highway
1st July
It looked like a short cut and was told so as well but after travelling 120kms over some extremely winding roads and facing some dangerous Sunday drivers we were turned back as the town we were heading to before branching west for 50kms and joining up with the KKH was close to the contested border of Jammu/Kashmir with India. We tried everything to convince the security bloke that we were 2 oldies wanting to take a short cut. No dice. So back we went about 60kms then headed west on a better road as it turned out and joined up with the KKH at a place called Abbottabad. We managed 220kms for the day but it took us 8 hours to do it.
The road across to the KKH was interesting. Heavily wooded it must be the place for families to come for a Sunday picnic as almost every corner on the windey road had a family group relaxing enjoying the coolness. We were up in the clouds on a couple of occasions then drop thousands of feet to the valley. The river just before Abbottabad meandered through a wide gravel bed. Hundreds of locals were out enjoying the clear water, washing cars, swimming and they even had a couple of big ferris wheels and a large gondola set up on the gravel for the kids. They must keep a pretty good eye on the weather.
We haven't lost mch time as the journey to Gilgit usually tas three days with the 2nd day being a short hop, however we will have to do an extra 10kms to make up for the mess today.
Watchers of “Global Village” on SBS (the best tv programme there is) may have seen an item about the polo match played on the Shandur Pass which is the highest polo ground in the world. Its played between teams from Gilgit and Chitral and includes 3 days of festivities. Well this years tournament happens to be this coming weekend and our timing is such that we will be in the area at that time. They reckon it's quite an event. Polo originated in the mountains of Northern Pakistan. We are looking forward to it
It looked like a short cut and was told so as well but after travelling 120kms over some extremely winding roads and facing some dangerous Sunday drivers we were turned back as the town we were heading to before branching west for 50kms and joining up with the KKH was close to the contested border of Jammu/Kashmir with India. We tried everything to convince the security bloke that we were 2 oldies wanting to take a short cut. No dice. So back we went about 60kms then headed west on a better road as it turned out and joined up with the KKH at a place called Abbottabad. We managed 220kms for the day but it took us 8 hours to do it.
The road across to the KKH was interesting. Heavily wooded it must be the place for families to come for a Sunday picnic as almost every corner on the windey road had a family group relaxing enjoying the coolness. We were up in the clouds on a couple of occasions then drop thousands of feet to the valley. The river just before Abbottabad meandered through a wide gravel bed. Hundreds of locals were out enjoying the clear water, washing cars, swimming and they even had a couple of big ferris wheels and a large gondola set up on the gravel for the kids. They must keep a pretty good eye on the weather.
We haven't lost mch time as the journey to Gilgit usually tas three days with the 2nd day being a short hop, however we will have to do an extra 10kms to make up for the mess today.
Watchers of “Global Village” on SBS (the best tv programme there is) may have seen an item about the polo match played on the Shandur Pass which is the highest polo ground in the world. Its played between teams from Gilgit and Chitral and includes 3 days of festivities. Well this years tournament happens to be this coming weekend and our timing is such that we will be in the area at that time. They reckon it's quite an event. Polo originated in the mountains of Northern Pakistan. We are looking forward to it
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