Joan's Word

HELLO FROM JOAN
Madikeri
5th May
Well I thought it was about time I contributed so you all realised I was still around.
When we stop Gary usually updates the site and by that time I am fully engrossed in a book and the urge to write has gone!
I must admit the first week in hot steamy Chennai coping with the frustrations of getting the van I kept asking myself 'Why am I here?' Being driven by the mad autorickshaw drivers wending their way through heavy traffic which gave no heed to road rules or keeping to lanes I also wonder how Gary was going to drive at all.
However I was sustained by the helpfulness of both the hotel staff and the freighting agents and others who farewelled us like old friends when we left. Mr Babu the manager of the freight realised from Gary's passport that it was Gary's birthday and sent him a SMS message and flowers! I realised they were city people but it was very unexpected! The hotel although only 3 star gave impeccable service, we were too scared to even serve ourselves a 2nd helping at dinner as it was someone's job.
Once we finally had the van cleared it was getting dark and it terrified me that Gary had to drive back 15 km into busy Chennai while we sorted out the insurance for the van. One of the freight staff came in the van to give directions and Gary handled the driving as if he had done it for years, sitting on the horn to clear the bikes and pedestrians on the side of the road and the slow traffic to tell them to move over, slowing down for the numerous speed bumps and pot hole, and getting us there safely! Since then we have had a couple of moments when we have met trucks taking a short cut on the opposite side of the road but we are getting used to it! Some roads are very good but others are very in need of roadwork and you don't really know until you get on them. Consequently my poor back has suffered at times but constant exercises and 2 night stays have rectified things and I'm hoping it will eventually get used to the Indian roads!
Once we were on the road I began to realise why I was doing this, the friendly people leading their so different lives glimpsed by us as we passed through the towns & villages, their culture, temples and colourful dress, especially the women in their beautiful saris. Even though it has been hot up till now it is so interesting and if it gets too much we read in our a/c rooms to refresh. The food is so good everywhere and we seem to feel we have overeaten every meal! It is mango season and they are plentiful which we are also enjoying so much.
Gary may have mentioned that today I had a 2 ½ hour Ayurveda massage by a practitioner recommended by the lodge we are staying in at Madikeri. I was a bit unsure but thought I should try something and thought I was only having a back massage !! When I realised I was having the 'works' I desired to 'go with it' and see what happened but didn't expect that long. As well as a full body massage with Ayurveda oils and technique there was also some sort of head massage to 'clear the brain' and a steam bath (up to the neck enclosed in a cupboard! Gary has a photo but I will have to screen it before publication.
I can't finish without mentioning all the AFD's (Alcohol free days ) we are having. Gary is not too fussed on the beer and I don't even feel like a G&T even though we managed to find some Indian Tonic water. I'm getting worried that I will have to leave my litre bottle of gin at the Pakistan border but there's still 4 weeks to go. Have had 3 glasses of Indian white wine and I'm sure it was less amount than the Australian standard drink varying from $1 to $5.00 a glass. Very drinkable though.
As I sit on the verandah of this beautifully clean and comfortable room which overlooks dried out rice fields but lush coffee cardoman and pepper plantations with a backdrop of tree clad hills it is hard to imagine we really are in India. But not all days are like this. I would like to stay longer here but the rains have started and we must push on.
Thank you all for your emails . I will reply soon. It is so good to know you are thinking of us and have contact from home. Take care.
Joan