26th July
Having trouble accessing the blog to put latest posts on. The authorities do funny things here, it could possibly be their doing. If this continues I may not be able to post these until Turkey.
Had a wonderful day yesterday wandering around, looking at the most amazing shops with the handicrafts and artwork of such a superb standard. Met up with 'Ali' who took us to a cousin's carpet shop where we expected the hard sell and informed him as soon as we went in we weren't interested. No, we just had chai after which he came with us part of the way along the square then invited us home for coffee which eventually became an invitation for a Persian lunch that we went back for. It was delicious with pickled garlic, pickled aubergine, lamb, salads rice, washed down with a chopped mint, yoghurt and water drink.
After a snooze we wandered along to the Si-o-Se Bridge where there is a tea house under the pillars. We sat and relaxed while the water gurgled by and boys fished from the water's edge. It has been such a recuperative day for us. Both needing a break, Isfahan with it's parks, trees, and river walks has been just the cure for us. In the evening everyone takes to the streets and parks along the river for their promenade. We bought ice creams and joined in and were even able to hold hands for the first time since India.
From what we have been told the Mullahs and the revolutionary council here in Iran are not popular and there is a longing for pre-revolution times. I was even told they wish the US would invade and change things, this from a bloke who had spent 20 years in the army including being involved in the Iran/Iraq war. It would be anther Iraq. The women at least can show their faces and are so much more outgoing than women in Pakistan. They are also very beautiful and not afraid to use makeup and dress more individually.
While in Isfahan we visited the cemetery of the over 30,000 young men from the Isfahan area killed in the horrible Iran/Iraq war. It was very touching to see the photos of all these young people killed above each grave. The US was on Iraq's side during that war.
Later:
Travelled on to Keshan, 200kms from Isfahan. A nice town with a great bazaar but what was the highlight were the Fin Gardens a few kms out of town. Built around natural springs some 3-400 years ago they are an area of flowing water channels, little fountains and cypress pines. There is a tea house there where one sits on these divan seats while the water flows from under you Another recuperative experience for us.
Had some of our ratatouille for tea last night. I had bought the vegies for it a few days back and being sick of throwing things out when they had gone off, was determined to make it up this time. Our van was parked right outside the front door of the hotel at Isfahan but I thought, if I pull the curtains, no one would know what I was doing. I had forgotten about the smell. Joan said she could smell it on the third floor. There were some strange looks when I walked back through the foyer. The ratatouille was delicious.
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