Omis, Dalmatian Coast. Croatia

28th August.
Very sad leaving the Prespa lakes and after a frustrating trip across from the motorway, that runs through the centre of former Yugoslavia, to the Dalmatian Coast we wondered if it would've been better staying an extra couple of days there and just sticking on the motorway up to Italy. But here we are, relaxing in a camp site once more overlooking the Mediterranean shaded by pine trees exuding their wonderful fragrance. Always think of the Mediterranean when I experience that smell.
Because of the break up of Yugoslavia there are now at least 5 countries you pass through where before there was just the one. We were unsure about visas as was the border control at the Macedonian crossing who had to ring to check the situation for New Zealanders. Not required. They had to check going into Serbia as well but again all okay. Then Bosnia Herzegovina and now we are in Croatia. All in two days.
The problem was the frustration in the driving across once we began to head to the coast. An 80 kph speed limit on the open road, 50 kph whenever there was a couple of houses, two lanes only with no passing areas, a preponderance of trucks who couldn't move over as there were no berms on the side of the road. It was slow, very slow. Bad enough but there were cops everywhere to enforce it with their bloody radars on any stretch where a bit of speed might be a possibility. Of course the Serbian treasury ended up with a contribution from me. Looking for a place to park for the night didn't help. There were no camp sites and it wasn't until after 6pm the first night did we find a bit of land near a river where we stopped. There were quit a few locals fishing when we arrived, it was very pleasant. Then after we'd gone to bed a group of locals came down, must've been about 11pm and decided to have a sing around a fire 20 metres from us. Yelling, whistling, breaking bottles, it was a bit scary. It was well after 2am before they took off. One of the things that you learn if you free camp is to assess the situation that may arise and be prepared for a quick exit. We didn't feel threatened but it may have become awkward. The next morning as we awoke two of the blokes come back down, threw the broken bottles further into the river then left the rest of the disgusting mess as it was.
In fact both Serbia and Bosnia Herzegovina are littered with rubbish. It's quite sad that they think so little of their country that they leave it in the state they do.
Before leaving Bosnia Herzegovina today we visited the Old Bridge at Mostar. The city was heavily affected from the fighting in the civil war and the old bridge became a symbol for the city. The fighting in the old city was terrible with most of the buildings demolished by the shelling. Yet the single arched bridge over the Neretva River resisted it all. It was hit a few times but still stood proudly. That was until someone planted explosives under it and blew it up. The Christians blame the muslims and vice versa. I don't think anyone has owned up. It shocked the city. The bridge has been rebuilt, they have used old marble pavers on the walkway but the construction of the bridge itself looks very new. Many of the buildings in the city are still ruins with shell holes and pock marks from the bullets.
This coastline would have to be one of the most spectacular anywhere. Thirty years ago it wasn't nearly as built up but even with more houses and apartments it is amazing. Barren mountains on the one side plunging down to the clear waters on the other side of the road with the villages and towns finding a foothold on the slopes. There are many islands off the coast as well. The camp site is only half full, it would have been a different story a month ago. The beach is gravel but that's a good thing as the sandy ones are still crowded. Anyone planning a trip to Europe but don't want to be here when all the Europeans take their 6 week holiday should aim to be here at the end of August. The weather is still sublime but the there is vacancies in all types of accommodation.